The Model B+ uses the same BCM2835 application processor as the Model B. It runs the same software, and still has 512MB RAM; but James and the team have made the following key improvements:
More GPIO. The GPIO header has grown to 40 pins, while retaining the same pinout for the first 26 pins as the Model B.
More USB. We now have 4 USB 2.0 ports, compared to 2 on the Model B, and better hotplug and overcurrent behaviour.
Micro SD. The old friction-fit SD card socket has been replaced with a much nicer push-push micro SD version.
Lower power consumption. By replacing linear regulators with switching ones we’ve reduced power consumption by between 0.5W and 1W.
Better audio. The audio circuit incorporates a dedicated low-noise power supply.
Neater form factor. We’ve aligned the USB connectors with the board edge, moved composite video onto the 3.5mm jack, and added four squarely-placed mounting holes.
This is something I need to look into for control the home theater. It would be drop dead easy if I could just walk into the theater room and say Jasper… Power On. I guess I wouldn’t be able to control things if a movie was playing but power and making selections between Apple TV and PS/4 would be great add ons.
I was invited to join the Google Glass Explorer Program yesterday. I have been following Glass since the beginning but have never had the chance to play with it. I’m on the fence about the opportunity but I can’t wait very long to make a decision.
I’m most interested in the photo and video opportunities since you can shoot and capture both hands free. Biking with Glass is something I’d love to try. Photo, video, and navigation all without using my hands or fumbling for my iPhone. Concert video would be pretty interesting. I also have a few ideas for children’s educational games and a fitness app.
I’ve never seen anyone in Des Moines with Glass so I might be the first. Or maybe just the first to be seen wearing them? But it might come down to the price tag. 1500 to get into the program. That’s a lot of cash and I’m sure I could spend the money on other gadgets. Still, I’m a big enough geek that it might be hard to pass this opportunity up.
I found this really interesting RPi project today and thought I’d share. The PiUi makes it easy to implement a rich mobile UI directly in python code and access it from your Android or iPhone. It’s powered by ratchet.js so there are lots of UI components available to create beautiful interfaces.
All you need in addition to a Raspberry Pi is a wifi adaptor. Your Pi will create a wifi access point to connect your phone to, then simply navigate to http://piui/ in a browser to access your app’s UI. There’s even an Android app to make connecting easy and show useful status info plus an iPhone webapp you can save to your homescreen.
I plan to use this in my mobile timelapse rig that I should be starting in the very near future. I can’t wait to start experimenting with this.
Here is a video from the website to give you a better idea of the possibilites.
A long weekend gave me time to work on the Raspberry Pi powered arcade system. For starters I used an old marquee that I had from my last arcade. It is not a perfect fit since it is smaller by about 2 inches all the way around. I’d really like to use the full marquee area with a custom marquee. This one one I downloaded from the web and added a bit to it. I have a very talented comic book artist friend so I might commission his to create me something custom.
My game pads arrived. I have read decent review of these retro style version on Amazon so I decided to pick them up. These are USB so they should be plug and plan. When I add these two additional USB slots will being filled and I am starting to wonder if I am going to be using all 7 USB ports on my powered USB hub in the very near future. My goal is to use the game pads for any Nintendo emulated games. I prefer the traditional arcade joysticks and arcade buttons for NeoGeo and MAME games but would like to have these as an additional option.
Below you can see the cabinet in use. The control panel still doesn’t have a protective plexiglass cover on it yet. But, the panel is metal and not wood. I kind of like it without the plexiglass at the moments. I sprayed about 4 coats of the white so I am hoping that is enough to protect it without the normal plexiglass on top of the metal control panel. I would also like to add some vinyl graphics to it. I will reevaluate the plexiglass when I start to work on adding the vinyl. You can also see the game pads in the photos below. The only thing I am missing is beverage holders on the sides of the control panel. I did notice this weekend that I have put place my adult beverage on the pool table that is with in an arms stretch behind the cabinet.
Here is a close up of the control panel in action. Now that I have NeoGeo games working I am thinking of adding 4 more buttons to each players already 6 button layout. I currently have the traditional 4 NeoGeo button mapped to each player more like a game pad with two buttons on top and two on the bottom. So that means buttons A and B are mapped to buttons 1 and 2. Then I have buttons C and D mapped to buttons 4 and 5. If I add the extra buttons I will have to drill into the metal again and maybe put another coat of white on it. More work so I am not rushing to make this update. I also need to make sure that I have the room for the extra buttons with the track ball in place.
Speaking of trackball I don’t have this working yet for any games. I also need to power a light below the trackball so that it lights up. The trackball works on operating system GUI so I’m not sure what I need to do to enable this yet fro games. My spinner is also USB so as soon as I figure out the trackball I should have the spinner working as well. There are a handful of classic game I really like to use a track ball for like Centipede, Missile Command, and World Class Bowling. For the spinner Tempest is must. I am pretty sure that the Raspberry Pi has no chance of planing any of the Golden Tee Golf games but those also use a trackball.
I hope my next post covers the trials and tribulations of getting the front end working to the different emulators. This is where I spent most of my time this last weekend. It has been a struggle to get that part of the project working.
I was back on the control panel again today. I decided to paint the panel white. Before I was able to paint I had to drill two holes and test the trackball mounting. I might have to order special carriage bolts but I’m going with what I was able to find at Home Depot. They seem to work.
I planned to use the original plexiglass cover despite having some carvings in it. After painting the panel white using the original panel was not going to work. Scratches really stand out. I am going to have to get a plexiglass cover professionally cut. Not sure what that is going to cost me.
Here is the sexy new look to the control panel.
I tackled the control panel today. I have 8 hours easy into cutting, stripping, cleaning, and cutting the panel some more. I am wore out to be honest.
I was able to use the original metal panel. This is a nice plus since the panel has the bolts for the joysticks already. I had planned to only use wood but I managed to cut the trackball hole without too much trouble into the metal control panel. A 3” hole saw did the work and it was a clean cut. It was a little cold outside but with my son’s help and we made steady progress. After cutting the trackball hole I used my Dremel to clean up the tough edges.
Next I planned to strip off the original sticker on the control panel. I bet it took me 2 hours to get the sticker off and the surface cleaned up. The sticker came off using a razor blade easily enough but the sticker left behind the sticky part. I scrapped, and scrapped, and scrapped some more. Then I sanded it and scrapped even more. Finally it was free of the tacky mess.
I ran into my first issue when I realized I cut the trackball hole too far down on the control panel. This mistake prevented the control panel from fully closing. I ended up having to trim out the particle board to get the control panel to fully close. Again the Dremel to the rescue.
Now it was time to cut some holes. I have added a total of 13 holes to the control panel. I bought what is called a step drill bit and it worked out great.
I added 8 button holes across the top. 1 and 2 player buttons will be centered with 3 buttons on each side. These were super hard to cut since I had to go through metal and wood.
The last button I added was for a spinner. This hole is placed right above the trackball. Since Tempest was one of my favorite games as a child I had to have the spinner.
Tomorrow I plan to paint the control panel white and try to cut some new plexiglass to cover it. I also need to find the right sized carriage bolts to mount the trackball.
I have some new equipment added to the arcade cabinet tonight. To get the sound working (louder) I installed a LP-2020A+ Lepai Tripath Class-T hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier. This meant I needed a USB sound card as well. I went with a 7.1 Channel USB External Sound Card Adapter. Finally a 7 port USB hub was added. Total price for this was about $40.
After getting the sound card configured and working with the Raspberry Pi it is loud. Really loud. I am using the cabinet speaker from the original Tekken 2 cabinet and it sounds incredible!
The rest of my efforts tonight surrounded figuring out how I’m going to work the control panel. I think I have a sold plan now so keep your fingers crossed it all works out.
If Wonder Woman needed a case for her Raspberry Pi she would want this case. It would match her invisible plane. This is the same paper case I designed but I cut it from an over head projector plastic sheet.
The entire time I was folding it I kept say it was not going to work. When I finished it was better than I could have imagined. Check out the photos.
Here is the paper version next to the invisible Wonder Woman version.